A trip to the moon

Cappadocia from above

Well, not quite. But from the hot air balloon this morning that's what Cappadocia looked like. A vast moonscape.

Goreme

We've headed 10 hours inland from Antalya to Goreme, which is a magical little place in central Cappadocia set amid towering tuff cones (or fairy chimneys), cliffs and vineyards. The weather has turned a little nasty but when you're cocooned in a cosy cave bar with a roaring fire and a couple of bottles of red, like we were last night, the weather is irrelevant.

Enjoying a wine in Goreme's only wine bar. The owner used to play football in the Turkish league and loved the culture of NZ (he'd never been there ... but he had worked out that kiwi Katherine was the only single girl among us)

We're here to explore the cave houses, underground cities and centuries old-churches, chapels and monasteries carved into the cliffs by the Byzantines. We're staying in a converted old cave church, owned by Hassan, who was born and bred in Goreme which makes him a modern day caveman. Very cool. Our rooms are caves, decorated in beautiful Cappadocian rugs, pottery and other handicrafts. From our spot on the top of a hill, we have views across Goreme, which really comes into its own at night when the lights twinkle in the fairy chimneys. I'm gushing, I know. Sorry ...

Our hotel room - yep, it's a cave

Today was jampacked:

• a balloon flight, with 15 japanese and a Belguim pilot named Gert who took more photos than the japanese
  
• a walk through Ihara valley, a massive gorge with ancient churches carved into its sides and local villagers harvesting potatoes in its gully
• a visit to Derinkuyu underground city, which has seven levels and is one of an estimated 36 underground cities of Cappadocia, possibly dating back 4000 years to Hittite times
• a short stop at a caravansari (camel market) along the Silk Road

And finally, a drink in the Flinstones Bar. Priceless.

A taste of the good life

Antalya harbour

We arrived in Antalya last night and managed to score a couple of bargain rooms in an 18th century konak (mansion) which had been turned into a super posh hotel complete with bath robes, slippers, free shampoo and concierges with little ear pieces (significantly more upmarket than the crumbling hostels we've become accustomed to).

So, we thought we'd continue to treat ourselves today before we boarded an overnight bus to head inland to Cappadocia. Think private boat cruise on the mediterranean ...

Lunch on the deck with a beautiful waterfall as backdrop ...

Diving from the boat into crystal clear water ...


And a few hours kip in the sun ...

Nope, we hadn't won the lotto. But there are substantial benefits to travelling at the end of the high season when the coastal towns are desperate for a bit of business before winter hits. The girls also thought they would treat themselves to a hamman (turkish bath). Two hours, five layers of skin , and some uncomfortable intimate moments with a couple of wrinkly turkish women later ...

The pools of Pammukale

Carl at the top of the travertine pools of Pammukale

The pools at Pammukale were formed when warm mineral water cascaded over the cliff edge, cooling and depositing its calcium. These pools were almost sucked dry when hotels were built at the top of the cliff in the 1980s. Thankfully, the hotels are long gone and the pools of water are slowing filling up again.

Emma wading through the pools on the way back to the bus

Remembering the Anzacs at Gallipoli

Gallipoli is definitely a place everyone should visit once. Thousands of Aussies and Kiwis make the pilgrimage here for Anzac day each year to remember those who lost their lives during the first world war. But, at this time of year, things are definitely much quieter, giving you the chance to really get to grips with what took place here in 1915.

Anzac Cove, where the ill-fated Allied landing was made on 25 April 1915

There is so much to tell about this place ... more casualties on the Turkish side than all of the allied forces put together, German ships disguised as Turkish ships, botched landings, fateful tea breaks by the British and, of course, amazing stories of camaraderie between the Turks and the Anzacs fighting eight metres apart in the trenches. They were so close that a grenade could pass back and forth between them a number of times before it exploded. They could swap newspapers and cigarettes across the trenches, and sing to each other. In fact, when they were building one of the Turkish monuments, they found the bodies of two soldiers, still clinging to each other - one was Turkish, the other was British.

Australian forces captured the Turkish positions at Lone Pine on 6 August. The memorial remembers the 4000 soldiers who lost their lives in just a few days in this assault.

We stayed at Anzac House, which was cheap. But, if you've got a little more cash to splash, head to Maydos Hotel, owned by same company. It's right on the waterfront in Canukkale, and is a good spot to watch the Turkish families promenade each evening!

Forget the horse, head to the ancient ruins

Forget the horse at Troy. It sucks. Get a good local guide and head for the ruins hidden behind it. Over the years, nine ancient cities have been discovered at this site, built one on top of the other and dating back to 3000BC. Four of the cities were discovered by a German/Californian archeologist but unfortunaely he destroyed another three cities in the process. Still worth a look though. Just remember, you need a good guide to bring it to life.

Getting reacquainted ...

with the joys of squat toilets. Not something I was looking forward to at all based on my experiences in Egypt and Jordan but I knew it would have to happen at some point. Faced with a six hour bus journey from Istanbul to Cannakale with a full bladder or a couple of minutes in a filthy squattie, I knew what I had to do. On this particular day, luck was on my side - I was wearıng a skirt which makes the old squatty much easier to manouver. Others were not so lucky. Boys, let me just say, you will never understand the things us girls have to go through until you've been forced to take one leg out of your jeans, sling it over your shoulder (the leg of your jeans, not your leg of course), hold a packet of tissues under your chin and try to balance without touching any part of the filthy grimy walls. I'll leave it there, shall I?

The city to beat all cities

As far as first impressions go, Istanbul is hard to beat. Breakfast on the roof terrace of your hotel with views of the mighty Bosphorous strait, which divides Europe and Asia. A turkish coffee in the Grand Bazaar, a stroll through the busy market area of Tahtakale and the banter of the vendors in the chaotic Spice Bazaar. The permanent line of fisherman on the Galata Bridge. The unmistakable minarets and domes of the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya. The labrinyth of bars, restaurants and shops in Beyoglu. The kebaps, the turkish delight and the fish sandwiches cooked fresh by the harbour. The call to pray resounding from the mosques dotted throughout the city.

This city really has it all ... including an Irish pub which shows premiership football games with commentary in English. And Liverpool just happened to be playing. Yep, Carl wins again.

Ayasofya from the steps of the Blue Mosque

The enormous interior of Ayasofya

No shortage of shopping opportunities. If you can't find what you want, believe me, you aren't looking hard enough

The view from our roof terrace

We stayed at the Hanedan Hotel in Sultanahmet.

Surviving the Turkish scrum

The blue mosque at dusk

Arrived in istanbul late this afternoon. This place is absolutely buzzing because Ramadan (known as Ramazan in Turkey) finishes tomorrow. Should be a nice little party when its over and everyone gorges themselves after a month of fasting. Have just been out for a kepab and a few beers. Tomorrow, we will be kicking in doing some sightseeıng ... provided the kepab doesn't make a return appearance. Ate at a street stall, which is usually cardinal sin number one in countries like Turkey, but it looked so tasty!

So many people here and, let me tell you, if you think London tubes are rough, they have nothing on the metro in Istanbul. It's like a scrum. They don't even let you get off before they are hurlıng themselves aboard and running for the nearest chair. Its a dog eat dog world here. The English and their polite queuiıng rule be damned.

We stayed at Bahaus Guesthouse.