Steve, Em and Carl in Split Right, so I’ll admit it, we were a little apprehensive about heading to Croatia less than a month after the Socceroos ended the Croats World Cup campaign. Not apprehensive enough to consider canceling our holiday, mind. But we did wonder whether it would be safer to say we were kiwis for eight days than admitting that we were a) from Australia, and b) had actually been there to witness their spectacular defeat.
We needn’t have worried though. After just one day in the Dalmatian coastal town of Split, we realised that the Croats didn’t hold a grudge. In fact, they weren’t even upset about the game. At first hint of our Aussie accents, almost without fail, every Croatian will happily claim that 5/6/7 members of the Socceroos were Croatian (the number fluctuates depending on who you talk to). And, they’ll hasten to add, their cousin/brother/sister/friend/dog lives in Sydney/Melbourne, so Australia is really just a far-flung outpost of Croatia and by default all Aussies are Croatian and vice versa. Take the argument to its conclusion and you’ll see what they’re getting at: our soccer teams are actually one and the same.
Sure, if that’s what helps them sleep at night. And if that’s what’s going to get us through our summer holiday unscathed, I’ll buy that.
Aahhh, summer holidays … I’m not sure that Aussies really truly appreciate their summer holidays. But, after three years in London, we were in dire need of aproper summer holiday, which involved sun, surf, sun, swimming, sun, cocktails, sun, sightseeing, sun, sun, sun. We wanted to transform our pasty white skin, toughen up our super soft feet, increase our freckle count and remember what if felt like not to have to carry around a jacket when you go out at night. Croatia met our list of demands and then some.
The port of Split
We flew into Split, the transport hub of the southern Dalmatian coast. From here, you can get pretty much anywhere along the coast, using whatever mode of transport you prefer. We chose ferry, which in hindsight was maybe not what our little bro was hoping for. I couldn’t understand why he wasn’t looking forward to cruising on the turquoise blue Adriatic sea or why he wasn’t impressed with the enormous (and extremely expensive) yachts dotting the harbour, until he pointed out to me that as a technician in the Navy he spent most of his days on much bigger and more impressive boats. Mmmm … he had a point.
Anyway, our first two days were on land, waiting for Waz to join us from London. We got ourselves a couple of great rooms right in the centre of the old town. We’d been told not to book accommodation in Croatia in advance, which was good advice. A soba is a private room in a house. It’s cheap as chips, usually more central and you get to meet some interesting local characters, like nana and her crazy black poodle in split and a 500 year old lady in Dubrovnik who would happily carry on a ten minute conversation with you in Croatian even though we clearly couldn’t understand a single word she was saying.
The old town is also home to Split’s Diocletian's Palace, which is one of the most imposing Roman ruins in the world. More a fortress than a palace, its walls were originally 215m by 180m, and contained the imperial residence, temples and a mausoleum. Its tiny streets, which are paved with a slippery type of white marble, are a great place to get lost. However, they provided little shelter from the Serbian army in 1991/1992. One of the locals we spoke to told us that he was forced to take cover in the basement of his building at night, as the Serbian army fired on the old town.
An ancient Roman in the Diocletian's PalaceJust outside the old town is the beach of Bacvice. It’s got no waves and not much sand, but the water was clear and the sun was out and that’s all we needed. Most people seemed to have the same idea as us during the day. By night, however, the water was filled with revelers from the nearby bars, playing football in the water in their underwear.
The beach at Bacvice By the time Waz arrived at the end of our first full day, we were exhausted. Steve, on the other hand, couldn’t believe his luck. He’d come to Europe expecting to see castles and churches but he never realised that the Croatian had another little gem up their sleeves: “hot, hot, hot women”.
Steve celebrates More photos from Split here.