Inca creationism on the Isla del Sol

Walking in the footsteps of the first Incas

This is it. The Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). The place where life began. Or at least, that´s what the native Quechuan and Aymaran people will tell you. It´s the story of their ancestors that has been passed on for centuries - creationism, Inca-style. Pre-Inca people believed that the island was the birthplace of the sun and the god-king, Viracocha. The Incas believed that the first Incas, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, mystically appeared here and decided they needed an empire. And, would you believe it, a hundred odd years later they had one.

Of course, nothing that exciting happened here today, but we can see why the Incas believed the island was special.

We left the shores of Copacabana this morning in an overloaded and completely unseaworthy wooden boat, which sputtered it´s way across Lake Titicaca in three long hours. The island is on the Bolivian side of the lake, hence the unseaworthy boat. In any other country, you´d at least have the choice of a giant ferry or a fast boat. But this is Bolivia, so the only way is the local way. It´s part of what we love about this crazy country.

If it wasn´t for the llamas, you´d be excused for thinking you were in the Mediterranean

Lake Titicaca itself is really just a big lake at altitude. It´s 3280m above sea level, but from what we´ve read the jury's still out on whether it's actually the highest navigable lake in the world. Regardless, it´s high enough to make breathing difficult and close enough to the sun to make you fry.

The Isla del Sol is home to 2500 permanent residents, ancient ruins, spectacular hiking tracks, and beautiful vistas. We took the high path across the island, from the Temple del Sol in the north to the growing village of Yumani in the south.

House-building in Yumani is a community event

It took us about four hours, although I wouldn´t say that we exerted ourselves. Everything happens slowly at altitude and the Isla del Sol is no exception. We ran into some people we´d met in Argentina, deliberated at length over the Rock of the Puma (couldn´t see it!), thought about picnicking on an Inca table until we realised it was originally used for human sacrifice, dodged llamas, donkeys and a man walking his pigs, and eventually were greeted in Yumani by local kids touting cheap accommodation and hot showers.

Now we've got a bottle of wine and have settled in to watch the sunset. Yep, life is tough.

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