Sunday, May 18, 2008

Cochasqui de Pyramids

One of 15 pyramids hidden in Cochasqui just outside of Cayambe

Sometimes we feel like we are the only tourists in South America. Yesterday we were in Otavalo, a tourist mecca where you can't walk down the street without running into tour-bus Americans. Today we're getting weird looks all over the place. It could perhaps have something to do with the random places we visit.

Certainly there are no other gringos in Cayambe as far as we can see, and no tourist infrastructure. So why are we here? Simple. It's halfway between Otavalo and Quito and we have a night spare before we're due to meet Warwick. We'd also heard that this place is home to some impressive pre-Inca pyramids. And we couldn't think of a better thing to do today.

Cochasqui de Pyramids is considered one of the most important archaeological sites in Ecuador, and according to our guide, Octavio, it doesn't get nearly enough recognition from the rest of the world. There are 15 flat-top pyramids at the site. Most remain covered by dirt and grass, disguised as hills.

Many people believe that the site served an astrological purpose. At the top of one of the pyramids, archaeologists have discovered a calendar of the sun and moon. The site is also positioned in a direct line from Quito and on a clear days has a view of seven volcanoes, including Cotapaxi and Volcan Cayambe (the largest mountain on the equator). Of course, when we were there it poured with rain, and fog and clouds hid the volcanoes, but you get the idea.

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