What have we done?

Carl on mosquito watch

We've been at our jungle camp for five minutes and already we're wondering if we have what it takes to survive the next four days. I've got a monster mosquito bite on my forehead and an ominous lump forming on my foot. Carl is examining the holes in our mosquito nets and applying unhealthy quantities of DEET to every part of his body, even those covered by clothing. (He's heard the mozzies in the jungle are so vicious they bite through your clothes, so he's not taking any chances).

We are in Madidi National Park, one of the most biologically and culturally diverse protected areas on earth. It's a world away from the pampas. This is the real Amazon, the one you see in the movies, with jaguars, tarantulas and all kinds of nasties.

Our camp is located on the bank of the Rio Tuichi, three hours by boat from Rurrenabaque. The facilities are basic: a few small cabins, two toilets, cold showers and a kitchen. Most people stay at the camp for two nights, using it as a base for short hikes into the jungle.

But we're not 'most people'. We're spending one night in the camp, then hiking deeper into the jungle tomorrow morning and spending the next two nights camping on the jungle floor. It sounded like fun when we were in Rurrenabaque. Now we're not so sure ...